Epilogue

well, some people managed to discover it already, so the word is out. I am, officially, back in the UK and well slept!

I arrived back at home at 9:30am yesterday, GMT, after 12 hours on a plane and 4 hours in Doha, Qatar. I flew with Qatar Airways, who were lovely. I even got one of those crazy packs with the toothbrush and earplugs and socks and eye-covers! so my life is complete.

The food was edible too, except for the items that I wouldn't eat anywhere, like fried mushrooms (breakfast). And they had stickers you could put ont he back of your chair saying 'do not disturb' or 'wake me up for meals' etc. The downside, for such a long flight, is they didn't have the little screens in the back of the seats. So there was only one in-flight movie to choose from, and, as is tradition, they were all crud. They had a great classical music thing on the audio menu, but halfway through the flight it started again. Which makes you wonder why they have the DJ pretending it's all live...

On the first flight, I was sitting next to a Swiss lady, who was a laugh. very talkative, which makes the flight pleasant, especially when the film was Chicken Little! she even gave me a soft-cheese triangle for my roll, and gave me her kitkat too. good times.

Got a shock in Qatar, when I bought a tall caffé latté... was 19QRs (Qatar Riyals) which is $5.32US or £3.04GB. what craziness is this?? I've been paying a maximum of 90NRs ($1.25 79p GB) for real coffee! oh welcome to the West!

coming in to land at Gatwick, the pilot announced the outside temperature as -5'C, which was followed by the collective groans of all the idiots who decided to travel in shorts and Tshirts... I mean... it's the first days of March... it's England... they were all british people... what do they really expect?

but it is cold here, even when you're wearing a fleece. It wasn't hot in Nepal... long sleeved shirt by day, thin-medium fleece by night. but it's warmer than here anyhow.

You can see my last few pictures, from Swayabhunath here. I'm having to get used to british keyboards again... in the east, the speech marks key is the same as the quote marks/ apostraphe key, and the @ key is the 2 key. it's more logical I'm sure, but after getting used to that, i now have to revert back!

Also using phones is hard after 2 months. using a payphone at Gatwick I had to dial about 5 times before i got it right... i think you have to dial fast and accurately for it. And calling for a pizza here was also hard. And I had to remember my address and everything! I've been saying 'none' when asked abroad... too much hard work to find out the hotel addresses.

And so, it remains to draw this portion of the blog to a close, as I am no longer a traveller. It will stay, in case I decide to go off again, and so you can be nostalgic with me.

Peace, and thanks for dropping by!
-ash

'down the track came a hobo hiking, And he said "boys i'm not turning..."'

Today was another relaxing day. These come most regularly, When I wake up too late in the day to bother doing anything. This occurs because I drink lots of coffee in the day, as we shall get to later, and stay awake until the small hours reading abou tPhileas Fogg and so forth.

So today I went and had lunch and coffee, and read what passes for newpapers out here. It seems like President Bush's planned visit to New Delhi on Wednesday has been lavishly spent upon by the taxpayers of the US and India. As if both countries don't have more pressing things to spend money on than flying armoured limos, fighter jets, helicopters, 250 secret service agents etc. to India, and drafting extra police, and loading the hotel roof with anti-aircraft missiles and emplyoing 'electronic warfare' systems along the roads to be travelled (whatever that means). Sounds like millions of dollars (and billions of rupees) up in smoke. I hope he has terrible insomnia thinking about that. But I doubt it. Probably has a box of Kalms.

Anyways...

I had the pleasure of spending 3 hours in a resteraunt reading my book and having caffeine and carlsberg, which was pleasant but expensive. Expensive, that is, for an evening in Nepal. Not for England. cost me Rs900 including tip, which is under 8pounds. I had a burrito, a Mirinda (think fanta, but Pepsi-co. They don't have tango), carlsberg (650ml), caffe latte, hot chocolate and a chocolate brownie sundae. You tell me if that's cheaper in England... I've been away too long to remewmber ;o)

The book in Question is Code to Zero by Ken Follett, the last of whose books I read (Whiteout) impressed me enough to try more of his. This one is set in the USA, and reminds me a bit of Grisham's stories, but I'm only 150 pages into 450 so far.

I finished Round the World in Eighty Days last night... It's readable even when one knows the ending, which is always good.

I have been informed that today is Shrove Tuesday, or Pancake Day. I didn't know this until about half an hour ago, so didn't plan any pancakes into my diet. But I had a burrito, which was chicken and cheese and salad and salsa wrapped in a tortilla (not a traditional burrito, but nice enough). And what is a tortilla if not a mexican pancake made from corn, rather than wheat, flour? Yes, in via the backdoor and all the happier.

Now I must ponder whether or not I am going to do something for Lent. I shall be partaking of the Lent Blog again, so please do feel free to pop in and read. Some of you seasoned bloggers may remember the Advent Blog, or even last year's lenten one.

I also bought some CDs today, as my listening material needs suppliments so as not to bore me. Laurence will be thrilled to bits to learn that I bought a Radiohead compilation. I also bought Bob Marley's Legend and the theme from the movie Oh Brother Where Art Thou? which i have tried for many ages of men to find in shops in the homeland, to no avail. So that's rather wonderful. It is a film all must watch.

I'm told It's snowing in Stevenage at the moment... Here it seems to be getting warmer. It's now more like late Summer in the UK, and it was more like mid to late Autumn when I arrived. fun fun. Still wearing fleeces in the evening... or at leat wearing them when walking to and from the outdoor resteraunts where I like to munch and lunch.

Au Revoir, mon amiees! (can't do accents here, remember?)
-ash

Today I visited a Buddhist temple which overlooks the Kathmandu Valley. It is called Swayabhunath or something like that, and is a whole complex of temples and shrines and a monastery attached. There are underground caves, which are closed to the public, and there is a huge main Stupa with the eyes of the Buddha painted on, as on mosy stupas in Nepal, and the question-mark nose which is Nepali for One, and symbolises the wholness of the world, and how we are all one.

There are Hindu shrines within the complex too, which seems odd to me... one wouldn't expect to see the Guru Grand Sahib in Church pews... but then Buddhism is often thought of as more a philosophy than a religion. Some choose to follow it religiously, as some follow the god of Aristotle. And Buddhism has a healthy attitude to people of other faiths anyway.

There is a Temple in New Delhi which is shaped as a lotus flower and made of white marble. I posted a picture of it some weeks ago. This is a temple of the Ba'hai faith, and They too have a similar attitude. The Lotus Temple is open to people of all faiths to utilise and to practise their devotions in the gardens. When we were in Delhi, it was Republic Day, and so all the monuments were packed. Many Indian people had come in to celebrate Republic Day, then did some sightseeing after the festival.

This attitude toward other faiths, although alien to us Western monotheistics, is very healthy I think. It breeds a respect that is so evidently lacking in most expressions of the western faiths.

At the Stupa, the views of Kathmandu were immense. Kathmandu lies in a valley, and the stupa is on a hill (not a huge hill) at the West of the city. I have taken a fair few pictures of the monuments and a couple inside the shrines (as one would expect, this is not always aloud). some didn't come out greatly... My camera has a longer shutter speed if you turn off the flash (to compensate for the moron who turns it off), and consequently a few pictures blurred. But I have tried to retake them by changing the aperture speeds... it just means they are a bit dark (too many reflective shiny things for flash).

I shall upload soon... it's a bit difficult to find decent computers here. I had an argument with the guy in the decent place over the price of blank CDs, so I'm having to make do with the hotel (which is slower than a snail on sand).

it's been ages since I've had to upload actually... I keep thinking it's all GUI but it's not! have to remember how to do it in DOS again :S

adieu!

And not, when I came to die, realise that I had not lived...

Well, since it's the weekend, and since most religions worship on a weekend day, and since most of the places I want to visit are temples... I haven't done any sight-seeing today or yesterday.

Today, I went for dinner at the New Orleans Cafe where I had a rather huge chicken-wrapped-in-bacon with barbecue sauce. Nice. And then, as I was leavng, they said they were having live music later in the evening. So I returned at 7pm...

The Music was wonderful. They had a group with native drums (which may be called Tam Tams or Tablar or something entirely not that) and a western acoustic guitar, and a more local guitar. And later a Tibetan Guitarist joined the mix. Was really brilliant. The drum guy was superb... he had a five minute solo that crescendo-d into some seriously warp-speed drumming. wicked cool.

So I sat and had much good real genuine proper coffee. And scribbled in my notebooks. And was even convinced to try the (bloody good I must say) choccy cake. Naughty but oh so very right.

And I read some excerpts from Walden (HDT), which have worked their way into my composition, along with selected quotes from Wasteland (TSE). What I wonder is, is, is, is whether any of you noticed a quotation I made recently? your prize will be eternal glory. Or a pat on the back.

Am currently reading Around the World in Eighty Days by Jules Verne who, it transpires, was a Frenchman. This surised me, because the lead man (Mr. Phileas Fogg) is a very English Gentleman. but there we go. It's a good read, and very accessible as far as things from the reign of Vicky go (I think, of course, of that wretched Dickens fellow... I don't rate him I'm afraid dears. Good stories, but such a poor way of telling them).

Anyway, that's enough Wilmer Web for me for now...
au revoir,
-ash

Well, I've not done a lot today that's worth blogging about... I decided to have a relaxed day.

One thing though... I have noticed that many resteraunts will play Western music when white people come in. More often than not, this is a sun-distorted tape with the following:
1) Titanic theme
2) something by Boyzone
3) something by the Spice Girls
4) Candle in the Wind by Elton John

and, on one unfrortunate occasion in mid february, Last Christmas by Wham.

'If there were water we could stop and drink'

Greetings Friendes, Family, Fans, CIA Operatives and Well Wishers...

yes.

Well, yesterday I came here to the Hotel Florid, and booked a room for today. Then, this morning, the owners of Via Via Cafe (as I recently complained in an email to my mum, there is no way of making the acute accent on the 'E' with these keyboards. Is most annoying, as it makes me look stupid) told me that someone had cancelled a booking early in the morning, and I could stay on if I want. Regrettably, though, I had already laid down two nights worth of tenure for this place, so I had to decline; I had already packed too, but that is a lesser issue.

It's rather a shame, really, as I was getting to quite like the Belgians who ran the place... they are very helpful and friendly, and rather amusing to boot. This morning I was chatting to a guy who was either from a northern state of the USA, probably west coast, or, more likely, Canada. I didn't think to ask at the time, as I was pretty sure he was American... but the more I pondered it, the more I'm thinking Canadian. Different manner, and the accent is slightly different (well, a lot different from some parts).

Anyway... I'm now at Florid. Which is pleasant enough... I even seem to have a balcony... which is one more access port I have to check I've locked. The room opposite can access the same balcony, so could, if it was occupied, come into my room via my outside door. Unlikely, granted, but one has to be vigilant.

Kathmandu is a huge place. The tourist hub is Thamel, which is where I'm encamped. It's all good fun. One of the Belgian guys was telling me the best places to visit, and which ones were walkable and which I should get a cab to. He also suggested the prices I should negotiate with the cabby... he he. Nice chap.

Via Via only had guidebooks in French, so it was a little harder for me to discifer the useful information. I got the jist, but not quite as much as by having it explained to me. I'm drastically out of practise with French, and I was never super at it anyway. I got a B at GCSE and haven't touched it since... something I hope to remedy in time.

If you ever get the oppourtunity to read Fry's The Stars' Tennis Balls, do. It is truely masterful. I'm now reading Miss Wyoming by Douglas Coupland, who has become something of a favourite author of mine since I read Girlfriend in a Coma when I was in a book club a year or two ago.

Today, I need to confirm a flight booking, and pay for it; and go shopping for cheap electronic gizmos.

So adieu to all, and have fun et cetera.

Oh, and, for Jan's benefit, my toe is now fine, thankyou. My two second toes, however, being the longest, seem to have got damages whilst trekking. It's utterly painless, but the nails are an interesting shade of burgundy.

'If there were water we could stop and drink'

Greetings Friendes, Family, Fans, CIA Operatives and Well Wishers...

yes.

Well, yesterday I came here to the Hotel Florid, and booked a room for today. Then, this morning, the owners of Via Via Cafe (as I recently complained in an email to my mum, there is no way of making the acute accent on the 'E' with these keyboards. Is most annoying, as it makes me look stupid) told me that someone had cancelled a booking early in the morning, and I could stay on if I want. Regrettably, though, I had already laid down two nights worth of tenure for this place, so I had to decline; I had already packed too, but that is a lesser issue.

It's rather a shame, really, as I was getting to quite like the Belgians who ran the place... they are very helpful and friendly, and rather amusing to boot. This morning I was chatting to a guy who was either from a northern state of the USA, probably west coast, or, more likely, Canada. I didn't think to ask at the time, as I was pretty sure he was American... but the more I pondered it, the more I'm thinking Canadian. Different manner, and the accent is slightly different (well, a lot different from some parts).

Anyway... I'm now at Florid. Which is pleasant enough... I even seem to have a balcony... which is one more access port I have to check I've locked. The room opposite can access the same balcony, so could, if it was occupied, come into my room via my outside door. Unlikely, granted, but one has to be vigilant.

Kathmandu is a huge place. The tourist hub is Thamel, which is where I'm encamped. It's all good fun. One of the Belgian guys was telling me the best places to visit, and which ones were walkable and which I should get a cab to. He also suggested the prices I should negotiate with the cabby... he he. Nice chap.

Via Via only had guidebooks in French, so it was a little harder for me to discifer the useful information. I got the jist, but not quite as much as by having it explained to me. I'm drastically out of practise with French, and I was never super at it anyway. I got a B at GCSE and haven't touched it since... something I hope to remedy in time.

If you ever get the oppourtunity to read Fry's The Stars' Tennis Balls, do. It is truely masterful. I'm now reading Miss Wyoming by Douglas Coupland, who has become something of a favourite author of mine since I read Girlfriend in a Coma when I was in a book club a year or two ago.

Today, I need to confirm a flight booking, and pay for it; and go shopping for cheap electronic gizmos.

So adieu to all, and have fun et cetera.

Oh, and, for Jan's benefit, my toe is now fine, thankyou. My two second toes, however, being the longest, seem to have got damages whilst trekking. It's utterly painless, but the nails are an interesting shade of burgundy.

Kathmandu 2

Well...
I am arrived and so forth. Checked into my room, which is a small but comfortable affair. There is a recess in the wall, into which is set a colourfully painted wooden fish, a candle stick with candle, and a small dichroic spotlight to illuminate the fish and add to it's weirdness.

I have a large futon bed (It claims to be queensized, but it is very much a liar); I have a wall cupboard with nice strong brass handles which i can use a padlock to hold shut, thus providing a safe for me to leave all my more expensive crap. I have a towel, a chair, a small table-stool thing, and a plug socket. There is a bathroom down the hall, and another downstairs.

There is a bar and resteraunt upstairs, which is closed on mondays so the owners can have a day off once a week. They are, however, in there if I need to speak to them. There is apparently a lounge and a nightclub, however, owing to the rabbit-warren-esque nature of the building (which is probably down to it's alleged age of over a century), I have so far not passed by them.

According to the noticeboard, a range of activities are availible, notabley Introductions to Pottery (2-4days, 9-5, 15Euro a day) and Indian/ Nepali cooking (3 hours each, 5Euro). Both are tempting... but, as we shall discover anon, may prove ellusive.....

Yes, leading on from the afore-mentioned courses and, indeed, the even more formerly mentioned 'queen-size' bed, is something of a conundrum. Or, rather, a problem. You see, When one books a double bed, one usually has two persons sleeping in it. And, because this is a European-owned establishment (Belgian, for the precise), one is charge per person, and not per room. The upshot of which is, that if one is occupying a space for two, then one pays the price of two. In other words, I am having to pay double-fare because there are no single rooms availible.

Which leads me on, of course, to the facte that I may well decide to vacate the place in favour of a premesis with single rooms in the not-too-distant future, so as to afford myself. Unless a single room vacates in the next day or two, which, I have been told, is possible but not necessarily likely. It may also be, upon discussion with the management, that I can wangle a deal.

And so I have managed to fill an entry with little more than talk of a room... cunningly disguising, it is my hope, that all I have done since I arrived an hour and a half ago is check-in to the the hostel, check the hostel out, then get my arse down the street to the nearest internet haunt... which is, I am delighted to inform, considerably cheaper than in Pokhara... over 300% i think, but I'm rubbish at mathematics, so here's the numbers: Pokhara: Rs99/hour Kathmandu: RS30/hour. Speed: pretty much the same, but older machines... non-optical mouse with no scroll-wheel, and infuriatingly tiny monitors.

Also, I am now well into the Stephen Fry book, having suffered a 7 hour bus journey. And, although it has a slow start, it is really rather good....